Fall on the Boardwalk: October in Ocean City

C stands in the surf at Ocean City, Maryland

When C and I lived in the northern Virginia area when I was studying French before heading to Guinea, it was C’s first time going to school in the United States. She was in the fourth grade. I recall that a friend of hers had traveled to Boston with his family and he sent her a text with a photo of a baseball stadium: Guess where I am? C had no idea. He came back, “I am at Fenway Park! Haven’t you ever been?” And C seemed a bit concerned that she hadn’t. I told her to ask him if he had ever been to the Great Wall of China or the Stone Town in Zanzibar or the Maasai Mara? But while that might be a great game amongst foreign service kids, it did not work so well among the other kids. Now that C is in middle school, where it is not so important to stand out but rather to fit in, C had asked me if we could go to Ocean City, Maryland, a place she had heard about many times from these other kids.

Sun & sand without the crowds

We had already had our major trip to Japan in the summer, and with the prices and temperatures in Ocean City higher than I wanted to deal with, I opted to plan our trip for the long weekend in October. The downside would be that some boardwalk attractions, like the small amusement parks, would be closed, and the crowds and lifeguards would be gone from the beaches. I had only been to Ocean City twice; both were as a child with my friend Jennifer, her mom, and her mom’s boyfriend. I did not like the crowds or spending a long time on the beach then and still don’t. I hoped to find enough for both C and I to get what we wanted out of Ocean City.

The weekend started with the drive. I do so love a drive and the three hours that include the Bay Bridge and the Assawoman Bridge on the final approach to Ocean City is a pretty nice drive. We lucked out with the weather! It was almost summer-like hot, but despite a major car show in town for the long weekend, tourist numbers were far below summer levels. A quick check-in to the hotel, then lunch, and then a drive to the northern end of the Boardwalk at 27th Street. C and I walked the full 2.9 miles of the Boardwalk to its southern terminus at the inlet, stopping to take in the beach, grab some snacks, and do a little shopping. C loves to buy t-shirts and hoodies with locations on them and she was determined to acquire some cute Ocean City attire to show off at school.

Sights along the Boardwalk – C in a funny cut out by the shuttered Ripley’s Believe It Or Not, a sand sculpture, and the Coca-Cola chair on the empty beach

At the Boardwalk’s terminus, where most of the famous sights and activities are located, we found several arcades. For me, an arcade, especially if it has skeeball (actually, it had better have skeeball), is just part of the Boardwalk experience. Though C loves arcades I do not often take her as she will clean me out. But for the Ocean City Boardwalk, I made an exception. Afterwards, C got some ice cream and I bought a single size of the famous Thrasher’s fries. And C and I walked the whole way back up the Boardwalk together.

On our second day, I drove the 15 minutes south to the Assateague Island Visitor’s Center. C and I last visited in 2019 during our mid-tour Home Leave from Malawi. Then, I rented a bicycle with a carriage to ride around Chincoteague; this time C had her own bicycle and we would explore the other of the two famous islands on two wheels.

Assateague ponies in the distance

We were just over the causeway to Assateague Island when we caught sight of a small herd of the famous ponies grazing near the water. It was the only time we saw them that day, though we still enjoyed our two-hour ride and a short walk along a nature trail in the dunes alongside the remains of the abandoned Baltimore Boulevard (a once grand idea to build a development on Assateague that Mother Nature destroyed leading instead to the protection of the barrier island). Once again the weather was warm and bright, perfect for a ride. We saw only a little more wildlife, including some migrating monarch butterflies and a black snake that struck out at C riding by when her bicycle surprised the reptile sunning itself on the asphalt (both she and the snake were unharmed).

Some of our stops on the southern end of the Boardwalk

After our ride, we were ready for some lunch and the siren song of Boardwalk goodies called us. Having only tried the deliciousness of Thrasher’s french fries the day before, C and I completely understood why the combination of fresh-cut potatoes, fried to perfection, and then doused in salt and vinegar, have been a Boardwalk staple since 1929. It was not the healthiest lunch, so we went whole hog and chased our fries with some ice cream from Dumser’s Dairyland, another Boardwalk institution (since 1939). C had been telling me for a few months that she was ready for ghost tours, so we opted to give Trimper’s Haunted House, on the Boardwalk since 1964, a try. It’s a simple dark ride where two occupants sit in coffin-shaped car that follows a track through a building’s first and second floors. It is just dark enough with enough creepy design to keep us guessing. But it was really the two live actors that jump out and grab you that really made the ride. C and I were screaming at the top of our lungs. Boy, that sure was fun! (though C says maybe she isn’t ready for another Haunted House for some time). To calm down our fast-beating hearts, we once again hit the arcade.

C makes Go Ape look easy

Thus, C tried to chicken out of our evening adventure at Go Ape. We had signed up for the Fright Night activity. I did not know quite what to expect having not been to any of the Go Ape locations ever, but I thought it would be ziplining in the dark and perhaps there would be people dressed up to make it a bit scary. Instead, it was a two-level ropes obstacle course, with the lower level about fifteen feet above the ground and the second level probably 30 feet. The entire time one is attached to a safety line, but it does not feel as if one is (at least not to me). When guests asked “what happens if I fall?” the staff would respond, “you don’t fall, you just dangle.” C caught on very quickly and completed all the obstacles on both levels. She even purposely dangled several times. I could only complete the first level; though I climbed up to the second level, I stood paralyzed at what looked like the easiest of my scary choices for a good five minutes before heading back down.

On our final day, we first took an hour walk along the beach. The good weather continued and I wanted to soak it in, with sand between my toes and my lovely daughter by my side. Before leaving town, we made one last stop on the Boardwalk. We visited the Ocean City Life Saving Museum. Though small, it provides a wonderful history of Ocean City, which has delighted tourists since 1875, and the U.S. Life Saving Service, the predecessor of the Coast Guard. The museum is housed in a former USLSS station from 1878. Even C found it somewhat interesting, so that is saying something.

The Ocean City Life Saving Station Museum

Because I love throwing away money on rigged games of chance and enabling my child to do the same, we once again hit the arcade. We had to get enough points on our cards to finally trade them for some items that we could have purchased for far less than we spent (but with much less fun). With her new stuffed pig and stretchy shark, we headed to the car for the drive home. Another successful foray into Americana under our belts.

Northern Virginia Activities and a Trip Down South: Making the Most of September 2024

Birds congregate at the Jamestown ferry terminal

My daughter C and I continued our quest to treat Washington, D.C., like just any other posting—to get out and about to see the sights and soak up as many recreational activities as we can while in the U.S. September 2024 was a good month for my daughter C and me as we managed to squeeze in a couple more activities around northern Virginia and take a weekend trip down to the historic triangle of southeastern Virginia.

We started the month with a local hike at Donaldson Run with longtime friends, the Ps. I have known the mom, NP, for 20 years now. We met when we both started working as research associates at the Institute for National Strategic Studies at the National Defense University, took the Foreign Service Oral Assessment the same month in 2008, we were both pregnant with our first kiddos in 2011, and today we each have over a dozen years with the State Department. One of the great things about serving in Washington is having close friends like the Ps here now as well.

Early September in Donaldson Run Park – left: Crossing the Run; center: Touch-me-nots in bloom; right: view towards Maryland across the Potomac River

Donaldson Run Park is a lush, 30-acre wooded area in Arlington, VA that borders two other parks and is bounded by the Potomac River. We met the Ps for a lovely three-hour hike through the woods to the river. The trail involved crossing the rock-strewn Run a few times; the bushes were full of blooming orange touch-me-nots. We rested a bit at the Potomac, watching several groups of kayakers. A few leaves had already begun to turn and I expect the scene would be even more beautiful in full autumnal colors.

C and I also had the opportunity to see the Cirque du Soleil show “Ovo” at the Capital One Arena in downtown Washington, D.C. This is the second year in a row we have caught a touring Cirque show, so fingers crossed they come back again next year. This year was C’s second Cirque show and my eighth. Per usual, Cirque du Soleil did not disappoint.

Cirque du Soleil’s “Ovo”

To round out our month, my C and I took a mini holiday trip to the Williamsburg and Surry area in southeastern Virginia. Once again, C’s taking part in Scouting America led me to find a new and interesting event to attend. C wants to pursue the Indian Lore merit badge because her grandfather belongs to the Seneca Nation. The Seneca are matrilineal, so C’s father is not a member of the tribe and neither is C, but she is interested in the culture. This past summer, her grandparents, who live on tribal land in upstate New York, took her to the Seneca-Iroquois National Museum. They also gifted her and her cousin a tribal flag and a deer plushie, representing their clan. C had just missed the annual Seneca powwow, so I did a little research online and found that the Nottoway, also an Iroquoian tribe, would have their annual powwow in Surry in September. I built our getaway around that event.

We drove the 2 1/2 hours southeast to Williamsburg, Virginia on Friday evening so we would be up bright and early on Saturday. It was an absolutely glorious morning! I had planned on our taking the Jamestown-Scotland ferry, a free Virginia Department of Transportation-operated ferry across the James River. I think there are not many such ferry services left in the U.S. and I wanted C to experience it. I recall when I was a student at William & Mary in the 1990s, I took the ferry once to drive around Surry, likely in search of some peanut pie from the old Surry House Restaurant, which sadly closed in 2011.

The James River on a stunning September day and a view from the ferry towards Surry, Virginia

I very much enjoyed the 20-minute journey across the river. A group of recreational cyclists from Pennsylvania taking the ferry for a 60-mile ride on the other side, asked me to take their photo. Lots of people were out of their vehicles enjoying the weather and the view. C reluctantly got out of the car for a few obligatory photos. Sigh.

After disembarkation, we drove over to Bacon’s Castle. It is a rare example of high Jacobean architecture; one of only three such buildings that survive in the western hemisphere, and the only one in the U.S. (the other two are in Barbados). Constructed in 1655 by Arthur Allen, it is also the oldest standing brick building in the U.S. The mansion came to be known as Bacon’s Castle as some followers of Nathaniel Bacon, who led an armed uprising in 1676 (that has come to be known as Bacon’s Rebellion), reportedly occupied the home. My nerdy little historic heart beat with excitement. C tolerated the visit. We first strolled around the grounds with an online guide and then joined a house tour. The young guide, who told me he was a long-time history buff but was changing his college major to marine biology, was very knowledgeable and enthusiastic. His zest however dragged out the hour-long tour. At 90 minutes, C and I made our exit.

Left: Bacon’s Castle – the larger portion on the left-hand side is the original 17th-century portion; Right: a glorious view from the area of outbuildings behind the mansion

We drove down the road to the Surry County Parks and Recreation Center on the other side of town to attend the annual powwow of the Nottoway tribe. In the center of the grounds, a circle had been cordoned off for ceremonial storytelling, dancing, and other presentations; this was the arena or sacred circle. Spectators stood or sat in folding chairs or on the grass around the arena and then in an outer circle vendors were selling native food and crafts.

We arrived in time to observe the Grand Entry. The Chief, other prominent members of the tribe, and invited tribal dancers, all costumed in their own regalia, ceremoniously entered the arena to the beat of drums. It was both solemn and stirring. I felt a great sense of privilege to be among the observers.

Scenes from the Nottoway powwow

Following the Grand Entry (no photos allowed and no hats — the Master of Ceremonies went around the circle chastising the clueless observers who had ignored the multiple entreaties to remove any and all head coverings among the crowd), the MC invited other dancers, veterans, and family members of those who served in the military to come to the circle to dance. C asked me if she could do so in her father’s stead (C’s dad is former Navy) and I said she could. I had not expected she would want to take part. She took it very seriously and was proud to do so. We watched several more dances, had lunch, and C bought some bracelets.

On Sunday morning, we drove to Yorktown Battlefield, part of the Colonial National Historic Park. Confession time: I was a student at the College of William & Mary, only a 15-minute drive from Yorktown, for 2 1/2 years (I was a transfer student from another college). And I loved American history; I was very nearly a history major! One might think I would have found my way to the national battlefield where the last major battle of the U.S.’ war for independence occurred, but alas, I did not. Well, I was finally making up for it.

Left: Gravestone at the Yorktown National Cemetery; Right: The Moore House where British General Cornwallis signed the surrender to General George Washington

We stopped in at the visitor’s center to walk through the small, but informative museum, watch the National Park Service (NPS) film, and pick up the NPS brochure. Then we set out on a driving tour of the battlefield sites while listening to snippets of information from a free app. The first few sites were of the variety where one really had to use one’s imagination. A field, perhaps mowed, maybe overgrown; old earthen embankments used for battle long ago covered over with wildflowers and weeds. And an informative plaque to describe how it might have looked 200+ years ago. We stopped at the Yorktown National Cemetery, which, though along the Revolutionary War battlefield route, is actually a Civil War cemetery.

Nature sites along the Yorktown battlefield driving tour

After the first few sites, the route meandered through the woods and along a waterway. Though it was a grey, overcast morning, the natural sites were beautiful and colorful. A few trees had turned; I wondered how much more vibrant it would be in the height of autumn. I realized I had made a mistake allotting only 2 1/2 hours in Yorktown. We had only time for this short stop-and-go drive. There is hiking and biking along many trails; one could easily spend an entire day or two, and that does not include the nearby historic town of Yorktown, which is probably worthy of a day or two in and of itself.

It was a nice getaway and a nice month for a few outings during the tail end of summer for the year.