*Yes, this is sort of an ode to Graham Greene, one of my favorite authors.
On February 7, C and I welcomed our first visitor to Malawi, my Aunt CW! How wonderful to finally share, in person, our home and life in this corner of Africa with a family member. I felt giddy as I drove to the airport to greet her flight, I even paid extra to access the observation deck at the Lilongwe airport so that I could watch her disembark and enter the terminal.
Arriving from the east coast of the U.S. can take a lot out of a person. There is the at least 24 hour door-to-door journey and the seven hour time difference. Just transiting the airport in Addis for any flight can take a lot out of a person. There was also the visa-on-arrival rigmarole and an unexpected “produce your boarding pass upon disembarking” challenge, but at long last I had my aunt in the car traveling down the M1 toward our home. There I dropped her off, gave her the grand tour, and left her to rest as I returned to the office for a few hours. That evening we ordered dinner from a nearby Italian restaurant for carry out (C was feeling a bit under the weather).
My aunt is visiting for one month and although I have planned for some (fabulous!) weekend getaways, she will be spending many days just hanging out at our lovely home while I continue work. Not just anyone would be able to enjoy this kind of holiday, but my aunt enjoys getting to see our every day lives. Frankly, Lilongwe is not a usual vacation destination — there is very little to hold the interest of an overseas tourist and we live in the leafy suburbs of a city with little viable public transport. For my aunt, who recently lost her beloved husband of 30 years, a low-key getaway to our home far away from the everyday reminders and tasks, where she can sit in our screened in porch enjoying a cup of coffee while looking out at our yard, lush with the rains and full of birdsong, is just the ticket. (Or so she says she enjoys seeing us in our natural habitat and lounging on our porch — maybe she is just humoring me?)
For our first weekend we drove the two hours out to Senga Bay to stay the night at the Sunbird Livingstonia, the oldest hotel on Lake Malawi. Despite it being the “green season” (a lovely tourist-luring way to describe the rainy season), we had a beautiful day for driving, walking along the lakeside beach, dining alfresco, and sitting poolside. That evening the sunset was something extraordinary — the light through the clouds turned the water and the sand a vivid, diaphanous burnt orange. Had I been in the desert I would have thought it a precursor to a sand storm, so I knew that our good weather was coming to an end. That night the skies opened up and it poured all night, knocking out the hotel’s electricity, but that was just icing on the cake as no visit to Malawi is complete without a power outage.
For our second getaway over the three-day President’s Day weekend, we headed east and north to the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, a new destination for C and I. Google maps told me the drive would take approximately four hours — three to Nkhotakota town, then an additional hour to the park entrance and through the park to our lodge. But Google maps does not account for Malawian roads. Turning north from Salima the road initially was better, but soon grew worse. There were many potholes, pedestrians, single lane bridges, and construction work to Nkhotakota town. Eight kilometers later we turned on to an “earthen” road for another eight kilometers to the entrance were we were met by a safari jeep from the lodge. Although I drive a SUV, the lodge suggested I arrange transport to and from the park gate to the lodge due to the rainy season effects on the park’s dirt roads. To drive the 18 kilometers (11 miles) over the rutted, undulating earth took 45 minutes. So all told from door to door took 5 1/2 hours.
As we transferred to the lodge jeep, our lodge guide gave us two rules for the journey: 1. if we see an elephant, keep quiet and do not jump out of the jeep, and 2. if flies get close to you, swat them away, they may be tsetse flies and their bites are unpleasant.
- Nkhotakota is the receiving location of the world’s largest elephant translocation in history. Decades of poaching reduced the once magnificent park to a shadow of its former self, with its animal populations decimated. African Parks, a non-profit conservation NGO that takes over the rehabilitation and management of national parks in Africa, took over Nkhotakota in 2015. As part of the efforts to restock the park, African Parks, over the course of two years, moved 500 elephants from Liwonde and Majete National Parks to Nkhotakota. African Parks also relocated an additional 2,000 animals, but it was the elephants we really hoped to see — though we know better than to hop out of the safari vehicle and embrace the animals.
- Tsetse flies! What?! My knowledge of tsetse flies is limited to the Atari 2600 Raiders of the Lost Ark video game I had WAY back in the day. As I recall tsetse flies were bad news in that game – its bite would render Indiana Jones incapacitated with African sleeping sickness. When I asked our guide however, he noted that the flies have to be infected with the sleeping sickness parasites to transfer the illness and these flies did not have it. Turns out tsetse flies also really like the color electric blue (the park has set up blue and black tsetse fly traps around the land) and their bites really are quite painful.
Arriving at Tongole Wilderness Lodge we were greeted with cold washcloths and welcome drinks. We were escorted to our rooms and then served a delicious lunch of macaroni and cheese and grilled chicken. As soon as we finished the staff asked when we would like our “tea” — beverages of our choice served with samosas and Victorian sandwiches — normally served at half past three. We requested tea be served as our sundowner during our trip to the waterfall that afternoon.
At 4:30 we meet our guide for the waterfall activity. It had been described as a short 15 minute drive followed by a walk to overlook the falls. Somehow a boat had not been mentioned in the first discussion of this activity, but at the stop the guides unloaded a boat from top of the jeep. This seemed, um, unexpected. We walked down to the river banks as if this was a perfectly fine idea and there we all stood looking at the fast-moving, tea-colored, frothy waters of the Bua River. Seriously?! After what seemed like a long several minutes the guides announced the river was not safe to cross. Whew. We could hold our heads up high as the intrepid adventurers we were — it was the guides who made the call, we did not chicken out (though we were certainly contemplating it!). Instead we headed to a flat rock where David Livingstone is rumored to have camped during some surveying in the area. Though still next to the turbulent waters, we were not in them.
Although two activities a day were included in our daily fees, the “green season” meant that our choices were limited. Canoeing was out with the swollen river. Game drives were out due to rainy season road closures. The waterfall visit was clearly out. Hiking was out because we did not want to hike in the hot and humid air, or maybe at all. We thus decided that lazing about the lodge and eating yummy meals would be our primary activities. We were the only people at the lodge, there was no one else to push or prod us into doing anything more. We were not disappointed.
The lodge design is stunning — unexpected curves and details all around. Our rooms were eco-simple and elegant. The views, they too seemed deceptively simple — brown churning river flowing by lush green foliage — but it was nature’s beauty at its best. We heard the sounds of the rushing water (so calming), the hoots of baboons, the calls, tweets, and trills of birds. At lunch, while dining alfresco on a lower deck beneath a fruit tree, we watched two African ground squirrels frolic in the branches of another tree. Later we were visited by a few monkeys. Butterflies flurried all around. And, at last, an elephant known as Short Trunk slid into the river waters in front of the lodge.
On our second and last evening the winds picked up, thunder grumbled from a few miles away, and lightening lit up the hills in the distance. Once again we were spared from a full day of mood dampening rain but treated to the beauty of an evening storm.
It rained a good part of the night but we slept well with the sound of the rain and the rushing waters of the river lulling us. Our greater concern with the rain was its effect on the “earthen” road we would have to traverse in my RAV4 from the park entrance to the main road. Our transport let us know they would survey the road conditions from the lodge to park entrance and determine whether they would accompany us all the way to the tarmac. The 18 kilometer trip took an hour this time as even the safari jeep fishtailed and spun its wheels in the mud, so all the way to the tarmac it would be. That $54 I parted with for the transport from gate to lodge and back is some of the best money I have ever spent. And though my aunt and I were equally impressed with my control over the RAV4 in similarly slippery conditions, we were grateful to have that chaser jeep with us for that bit, just in cases.